TODD SELBY'S TOKYO GUIDE 45 places, by neighborhood.

AOYAMA / OMOTESANDO / JINGUMAE

Graphpaper AOYAMA — Concrete box, hidden rails, quietly perfect Japanese basics. https://www.instagram.com/graphpaper_aoyama/

AURALEE TOKYO — Basement flagship for the softest wool and cotton in Tokyo. https://www.instagram.com/auralee_tokyo/

KAPTAIN SUNSHINE Flagship — First flagship, CASE-REAL interior, courtyard off the selling floor. https://www.instagram.com/kaptainsunshine/

Momofuku (百福) — Small gallery shop of contemporary potters, rotating solo shows. https://www.instagram.com/utsuwa_momofuku/

at Kiln AOYAMA — Artist-made vessels downstairs, working pottery studio upstairs. https://www.instagram.com/atkiln/

VINTAGE QOO TOKYO — Two floors of vintage Hermès and Chanel under chandeliers. https://www.instagram.com/vintageqoo/

CIBONE — Design and craft under GYRE, always a show running. https://www.instagram.com/cibone_tokyo/

SunnyHills — Kengo Kuma timber lattice, free pineapple cake and tea.

Brown Rice by Neal's Yard — Macrobiotic plates in a dark wood room.

Chao! bamboo — Thai and Vietnamese street food, open front, always packed. https://www.instagram.com/chaobamboo_group/

Onden Ippo — Goto island fish, Saiki himono, serious sake list.

AFURI Harajuku — Yuzu shio, cash-free, plus a genuinely good vegan bowl. https://www.instagram.com/afuri_fineramen/

SHIBUYA / SENDAGAYA / YOYOGI / SHIMOKITAZAWA

#FFFFFFT, Sendagaya — White T-shirts only. Weekends only. He fits you himself. https://www.instagram.com/fffffft_sendagaya/

Chatei Hatou, Shibuya — Hand drip in near silence, chiffon cake, cups everywhere.

MERI PRINCIPESSA, Maruyamacho — Pizza and pasta under a dried palm canopy, warm welcome.

Starbucks Shibuya Tsutaya, 2F — Window seats over the crossing. Go behind the trash cans.

Sunday Bake Shop, Hatagaya — British cakes and scones, open three days a week. https://www.instagram.com/sunday_bake_shop/

Little Nap Coffee Stand, Yoyogi — Wedge of a room by the tracks, park across the street.

Bear Pond Espresso, Shimokitazawa — Angel Stain before one o'clock, no photos inside. https://www.instagram.com/angelstain/

AZABU / ROPPONGI / AZABUDAI

Nodaiwa Azabu Iikura Honten, Higashi-Azabu — Edo-era eel house, shirayaki, tatami rooms near Tokyo Tower. https://www.instagram.com/azabu_nodaiwa/

SAVOY, Azabu-Juban — Margherita and marinara, wood fire, counter seats only. https://www.instagram.com/savoyazabujuban/

Pizza Strada, Azabu-Juban — Wood-fired Neapolitan, takes reservations, easy with kids. https://www.instagram.com/pizzastrada10/

Roppongi FUKUZUSHI — Family run since 1917, quiet counter, reservations only. https://www.instagram.com/roppongifukuzushi/

L'ecrin Boutique Tokyo, Nishi-Azabu — Hermès specialist behind a herringbone glass facade. https://www.instagram.com/lecrin_boutique_tokyo_intl/

Taka Ishii Gallery, Roppongi — Photography-rooted program, Moriyama and Araki among the artists. https://www.instagram.com/takaishiigallery/

HARBS Roppongi Hills — Six-layer mille crepe, cut the size of a doorstop.

MIO HARUTAKA Tokyo, Azabudai — Nature-motif fine jewelry in a room by Sugimoto's design lab. https://www.instagram.com/mioharutaka/

ÉCHIRÉ L'Atelier du Beurre, Azabudai — Butter atelier, truffle macarons, croissants, expect a line.

ALCHEMY, Azabudai — Bali plant-based kitchen, salad bar, terrace above the plaza. https://www.instagram.com/alchemy.japan/

GINZA / KYOBASHI / NIHONBASHI / NINGYOCHO

Tsukiji Sushi Iwa, Ginza Mitsukoshi B2 — Nigiri handed across the case in the depachika corner.

Café de L'Ambre, Ginza — Aged beans and nel drip, unchanged since 1948.

CREATIVE MUSEUM TOKYO, Kyobashi — New museum in the Toda Building, four shows yearly. https://www.instagram.com/creative_museum_tokyo/

Tsujihan, Nihonbashi — Tuna bowl finished with sea bream broth. Expect lines.

Iwai Tsuzuraten, Ningyocho — Last Edo tsuzura maker, bamboo boxes under lacquered paper.

ASAKUSA / KURAMAE / TORIGOE / RYOGOKU / MINAMI-SENJU

MARUZEN Tea Roastery, Asakusa — Matcha whisked to order, gelato graded by roast temperature. https://www.instagram.com/matcha_asakusa_maruzen/

Kakimori, Misuji — Order a notebook, choose cover, paper and rings. https://www.instagram.com/kakimori_tokyoshop/

inkstand by Kakimori, Misuji — Blend your own ink at the counter, reserve ahead. https://www.instagram.com/kakimori_tokyoshop/

SyuRo, Torigoe — Tin canisters and daily tools inside an old warehouse. https://www.instagram.com/syuro_tokyo/

YUWAERU Main Store, Kuramae — Aged brown rice set lunches, line out the door. https://www.instagram.com/yuwaeru_honten/

Kazuya Rice Flour Bread Cafe, Ryogoku — Gluten free rice flour bakery, neighborhood prices, tiny room. https://www.instagram.com/pancafe.kazuya/

1basketry, Minami-Senju — Handwoven bamboo, vine and straw baskets since 1907. https://www.instagram.com/1basketry/

SHIROKANEDAI

AMAHARE — Craft tableware, glass and lacquer, arranged like a gallery. https://www.instagram.com/amahare/

SUGAMO

FRENCH POUND HOUSE — Strawberry shortcake worth the trip north. Cash only. https://www.instagram.com/french_pound_house/

NAKANO

BETTYROAD — Women's vintage watches, the deepest cases in Nakano Broadway. https://www.instagram.com/bettyroad/

HANEDA AIRPORT

Hakuhinkan Racing Park, Terminal 3 — Forty-five metre slot car circuit inside a toy shop.

BEFORE YOU GO #FFFFFFT is Saturday and Sunday only. 1basketry is Thursday to Saturday plus one Sunday a month. Bear Pond doesn't allow photos inside. French Pound House and Chatei Hatou are cash only.